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Exploring Palestine’s Heart: A Journey to Al Aqsa and the Land of Spiritual Embrace
Nestled in the heart of the Middle East, Palestine is a land brimming with history, culture, and the resilience of its people. In this interview with Aarifah (Instagram @aari_1o1) we have the privilege of learning and experiencing Palestine through her lens.
“I have stayed in 3 countries across two continents within one year. I have been blessed to perform Hajj and a Ramadan Umrah Alhamdulillah. However, the most amazing travels I have ever had were my two trips to Masjidul Aqsa. I am a firm advocate that the best thing we could do for the people of Palestine is present ourselves in Masjidul Aqsa.
They are fighting with their lives to keep this Haram in the hands of the Muslim Ummah yet the Muslim Ummah does not visit it the way we do the other two Harams.
Every Palestinian would tell you that they don’t want your money, they want you to present yourself in Masjidul Aqsa. To remind them and the occupation that the Ummah has not forgotten Masjidul Aqsa. So make the intention to journey to Masjidul Aqsa.
What made you decide to travel to Palestine?
We wanted to stay as long as we could after our Hajj in Mecca. Someone during our 2019 Hajj prep suggested that we add Al Aqsa to the end of our Hajj trip. Alhamdulillah we did…. On this trip I made so much dua to return that Alhamdulillah I was blessed to return in Shawwal of 2023 with my parents and in laws.
Advice on Accommodation when travelling to Palestine
No matter how seasoned you are as a traveler, I would suggest your first trip be with a guide who has been before. Just so that you have someone to be there through the nuances of the occupation. Most agents and even private bookings will be at Hashimi (within the old city), Golden Walls or New Capitol. Each is a different walk within the city and sometimes outside of the city so have good shoes for walking. There are no fancy hotels. Most hotels will be a BB and if they offer more than one meal then that would be advantageous. All hotels will have your basic amenities.
Which airport did you fly into when you travelled to Palestine?
Both times we flew to Amman, Jordan and crossed into Palestine via the Allenby Bridge. I would always recommend this route over Tel Aviv. As of October 2023, most flights into Tel Aviv have been canceled. However, flights to Amman remain operational and the Allenby Bridge remains open.
What was your experience at the border when you were traveling to Palestine?
I would describe it as an unknown time for a transit in a third world airport.
So, you will first get to the Jordan side where you might need to pay for a bus (approx USD20 pp). Please check with your agent if this is covered or not. If not covered, you will need to have the cash dollars on hand when you get on the bus. There are several checks at Jordan, on the bus and once you reach the occupation side. Sabr & Shukr at all times. Durood at all times for Allah to give you safe passage.
There will be porters available to help with luggage and they too will need to be tipped in small dollar denominations. On the occupied side they will scan your bags, etc. as they would at an airport. Thereafter, if you are under the age of 40 you will be asked to sit down and at some point, they will give you a form to fill in. If you are over 60, they will issue your visa and let you proceed out of the building immediately, Insha’Allah.
On both my trips they gave us forms to fill. Fill them completely and honestly as they have all the answers already. The first trip they questioned our men folk only twice in the same open area we were sitting in and our agent. On our second trip they questioned my husband once and allowed us to proceed. During our first trip, we sat for 7 hours and on our second trip we sat for 3 hours.
Do you have any tips for parents travelling with their kids to Palestine?
Take things to keep the kids busy which don’t need the internet. Yes, they have wifi but I would recommend only one phone connection to let those at home know you are at the border, and also speak perhaps to the people waiting on the other side of the border if you are alone. If you are with an agent, leave it to them to communicate and rather spend the time connecting to Allah. Read the stories of the prophets. You are visiting the place where these stories happened.
They keep the young just to frustrate them, to discourage them from returning and to make it distasteful for others to come. In Al Aqsa, the walking becomes more difficult when you are older and thus, they tend to let the elders be. Take food with you, spend your time in durood and read the Quran. Do not get discouraged or annoyed, you are being rewarded for the wait too. The bathrooms are very clean. They will even leave you to pray your salaahs. There is a shop run by the occupation which is expensive.
After passing through the border, how did you get to your hotel? Did you need to arrange transport prior to your travels?
On our first trip the agent arranged the transport. The elderly unfortunately had to wait 7 hours for us so if you are traveling with older people that you think may not manage, then please speak to your agent ahead of time to enquire. On our second trip we had arranged with our tour guide to be there to collect us as we had a few too many items with us. There are buses and taxis available at the border to take you to the old city as well. I suggest you carry cash dollars for this and agree upfront as is the thumb of rule of any taxi ride.
I would always suggest planning your first trip with an agent. Just so there is someone there who has been before and has experience with the occupation. Alhamdulillah with our passports on us (which you should keep on you at ALL times) they would question us and let us go (at the border and in the city) but you rather have that safety. Also, they will show you the routes in the city and give you the history. They are likely to take you to Masjid Khalil, where Ebrahim (AS) is buried which is getting increasingly difficult to visit without being in a group.
Also most groups will take a Moulana who knows the history which just adds value to the whole experience. You will then have to follow the itinerary but you can request it earlier and most agents will give you a free day to explore the old city on your own. We have done it for ourselves and our parents. Just make sure you have booked accommodation and proof of a return ticket out of Jordan to make your trip easier.
Please tell us about the atmosphere and the people of Palestine?
I could write a 300 page book and I won’t do justice to the atmosphere of Masjidul Aqsa. If you go there and you disagree with me, Wallahi, I will reimburse you your border tax. In the old city, you will see the occupation more but if you leave them alone they should leave you alone. They might make unnecessary comments, but we are the Ummah of Nabi (SAW) so we act dignified at all times.
If you travel outside of Jerusalem you will go through checkpoints. Between your guide and your passport you will be allowed to pass. Sometimes they will want to question you and search your things. The level of paranoia is the greatest punishment Allah has levied on them so remain content knowing you are in the protection of Allah.
The people of Palestine are so lovely and when you tell them where you come from they get so happy. The occupation has made life significantly visibly harder for them between 2019 and 2023 and I’m sure even worse so since October 2023. So please listen to them with kindness, support them even if its pricier in the old city and be a beacon of hope for them.
How long did you spend in Palestine ?
We spent an average of 4 days each trip. One day touring the old city, one day visiting Khalil (Hebron) and perhaps Bethlehem too, one day free and one day learning about the Haram. I think between 4-5 days will be sufficient as the cost of living and buying in the old city is high and our currency is weak. Try to be there for Jummah if possible. If you have a limited time then even praying one day of 5 salaah will be sufficient, but you will wish you had spent more days… I would say do a minimum of 3 days with one day in Khalil. Salaam to Ebrahim (AS) is also important.
How did you spend your days?
Only on one of the trips we went to Bethlehem to see the church of Nativity. On both trips we went to Hebron to visit the graves of Ebrahim (AS) and his family. This is a must for all muslims. Research it. Moulana Olgar’s book explains it well. Also the occupation has fought hard to take this out of the hands of the muslim so lets fill what we have left of the mosque so it stays within the hands of the Ummah, Insha’Allah.
I would suggest you spend some time and money walking around the old city buying and talking to the merchants. Tell them you are muslim and where you come from. It makes them happy. Don’t just accept their prices as with any foreign land but support them by buying from them. As part of your tour of the Old City you will visit Masjid Umar. Take the time to research the background of the treaty and if you wish to, visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – it too is linked to our muslim history and has lessons to be learnt from for our daily lives.
What foods did you try out and would recommend others try when in Palestine?
Fresh hot bread after fajr from the bakery when you exit at Harrods gate. Ask the locals, they will guide you, or the smell of burning olive wood will lead you and of course a fresh falafel and shawarma.
Any shopping items that you bought and love?
GUMS!!!!… If the dome of the rock is on your right, the gate on your left will look like it sells toys. Beyond the toys, are the gum stores. It is all Halaal as it has to be kosher to enter under the occupation. Buy kilos and enjoy it for me. Also support the stores in the old city as much as you can. From drinks to meals to souvenirs.
When do you think is the best time to visit?
August – September. Their winters are cold as they are very high and sometimes even get snow. We have always arrived from Saudi Arabia, so it was always a step down in temperature for us. Google the weather before you decide and then go but it is in the northern hemisphere so it will be the opposite of SA weather. Remember you are high up so a light jacket is always recommended.
From a spiritual point of view, do you feel you have grown as a person after traveling to Palestine?
Definitely! No salaah I have prayed since I walked into Al Aqsa was the same. I read salaah where Nabi (S.A.W) led every single prophet in salaah and felt that Sukoon (peace). May we all get to experience it over and over again.
Tell us about your feelings and emotions when you were in Palestine?
I left my heart there in the peaceful olive gardens of Al Aqsa. May Allah grant me the opportunity to visit it again and again.
Any tips and advice for anyone wanting to travel to Palestine?
If Allah has placed it in your heart to even want to travel to Palestine, count yourself as among the favored and may Allah make it come true for you, Insha’Allah. It is not cheap (food, etc.) but Allah will recompense you in ways you will never imagine Insha’Allah. Have faith that Allah will take you with aafiyah. Increase your durood E-Ebrahim as you are going to the land of Ebrahim (AS). Spend time learning about its history before you get there and when you are there.
Every Palestinian I met on both my trips told me the same thing, “Tell the Ummah to come and fill Masjidul Aqsa” to fulfill the desire of the oppressed, so that on the day of Judgement we can be honored to be among them Insha’Allah. If Allah wills, may I live to see the day that when I want to enter the Masjid Al Aqsa compound I am told: “It is full. Pray on the streets. The Ummah has arrived.”
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Thank you Aarifah for doing this interview with Halaal Travels. Please feel free to reach out @aari_1o1 via Instagram if you have any questions.
If you would like to tell us about your journey to Palestine you can submit your article here.
